Tango in San Telmo, Palermo parrillas, Recoleta cemetery: Buenos Aires unfolds barrio by barrio. 2026 money advice, real milongas and a 3-day plan.
Buenos Aires at a glance
Population
3.1M (15M metro)
Airports
EZE + AEP
Ideal stay
3 to 4 days
Budget / day
€40-250
Flight Paris
~13h45 direct
Time diff
-4h winter, -5h summer
Current climate
Best season
In brief
Pay by card without second thoughts
Since exchange rates were unified, foreign cards are charged at the MEP rate, nearly identical to the blue dollar. Keep €50-100 in cash for markets and tips.
Book Don Julio and the Teatro Colón
The world's most famous parrilla books out weeks ahead online. Colón guided tours (50 min, Spanish or English) leave hourly; buy tickets online.
San Telmo on Sunday
The San Telmo feria stretches a kilometer of antique dealers and street performers along Calle Defensa. Go in the morning, then catch spontaneous tango on Plaza Dorrego.
La Boca in daylight only
The Caminito and its painted tin houses are a daytime visit. Stay on the tourist circuit; the surrounding area remains rough.
Live late, like a Porteño
Dinner at 9:30-10:30pm, milongas warming up after midnight, Palermo bars full until 4am. Shift your rhythm from day one, siesta included.
Must-see
A miniature city of 4,800 marble mausoleums where Evita rests. Argentina's most visited monument; foreigners pay an entry fee.
The colonial tango district. An 1897 covered market, antique shops and the great Sunday feria along Calle Defensa.
One of the world's five great opera houses, with legendary acoustics. Take the tour or, better, a cheap upper-tier show.
The painted tin houses of the old Genoese port, cradle of Boca Juniors and La Bombonera. Daytime only.
Street art walls, designer boutiques, specialty coffee and the continent's best nightlife.
A 1919 theater turned bookshop, regularly ranked the world's most beautiful. Coffee served on the old stage.
Argentina's political heart since 1580: the pink presidential palace, the colonial Cabildo and Pope Francis's cathedral.
The tango Porteños actually dance, not the dinner-show version: La Viruta, Salon Canning or El Beso. Beginner class before the ball.
Rehabilitated docks, Calatrava's Puente de la Mujer and 350 hectares of nature reserve facing the skyline.
Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Berni: the continent's finest Latin American art collection in a light-filled building.
Choose your district
The default choice: restaurants, bars, parks and decent safety. Soho for boutiques, Hollywood for nights out. From €50/night.
★ Recommended
Buenos Aires's Parisian elegance: Haussmann-style avenues, grand hotels and museums. Quiet at night. From €70/night.
Chic
Colonial houses, tango bars and charming hostels. Authentic, rougher after dark. From €30/night.
Budget
Modern towers and business hotels on the docks. The safest and most sanitized district. From €120/night.
Premium
Getting around
Subte (metro)
6 lines, handy toward the Centro. SUBE card required (kiosks) or contactless on some lines. ~€0.70 per ride.
Colectivos (buses)
Hundreds of 24/7 lines, the city's real network. Pay with SUBE. The 'Cómo llego' app plots routes.
Uber / Cabify
Cheap and reliable. Palermo-San Telmo runs €4-7. The go-to at night and for La Boca.
EcoBici
Free share bikes for 30 min on weekdays (app signup). Decent bike lanes in Palermo and Puerto Madero.
Climate & crowds
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Southern summer
Dec to Feb · 25-35°C, humid · Hot, half-empty city in January, good hotel rates
Southern autumn
Mar to May · 15-25°C, mild · Ideal: golden light, terrace season in full swing
Southern winter
Jun to Aug · 8-16°C, dry · Cool but bright, cultural season at full throttle
Southern spring
Sep to Nov · 15-25°C, jacarandas · Ideal: jacarandas bloom in November, parks at their best
How much
Backpacker
€40
per day
Comfort
€100
per day
Premium
€280
per day
Our tested itinerary
Day-by-day program.
Around
1 h by train · Wooden lanchas through the Paraná delta maze
1h15 by ferry · The UNESCO-listed Portuguese colonial town, in Uruguay
1-2 h away · Gaucho day: asado, horses and folklore in San Antonio de Areco
1h50 flight · 275 waterfalls in the jungle, Argentina's great spectacle
FAQ
Thomas Bernard ✓
·Geographer & traveler
Last updated: June 10, 2026.